The end of Croatia: From a pleasant jungle to a concrete jungle

After 8.5 hours, 16 lakes, 18 km and nearly 500 photos we can finally say that we saw Plitvice Lakes National Park. It was definitely one of the highlights of all of Croatia and a place not to be missed.

The Plitvice Lakes National Park lies between Zadar and Zagreb and is comprised of 16 lakes that are separated by natural dames of travertine. Encrusted plants and bacteria accumulate on top of each other forming travertine barriers which grow at a rate of about 1cm per year and thereby continuously change the landscape.

The lakes are separated into an upper and lower cluster from by runoff from the mountains, descending from an altitude of 636 to 503 meters. One of their greatest appeals is the distinctive colours which range from azure to green, turquoise, grey or blue.

As mentioned we spent the majority of the day wandering along the boardwalks and trails connecting these lakes loving every moment of it. It was a kind of cross between a miniature Iguacu Falls and Niagara Falls but different. So, as the Thai would say it, “Same same but different.” Every corner you poked your head around greeted you with yet another fantastic sight: a different color of the lake, a different kind of fish that you could spot swimming in its depths, a stunning waterfall or simply another cascade that meandered its way along and underneath the boardwalk you were walking on. We walked for well over 8 hours that day and did not feel the least bit tired. It was the most rejuvenating day I’ve had in all of Croatia.

What makes this park so much better is how easily accessible it is. I have traveled a lot through various parks both in Europe and in North America and quite often unless you have a vehicle and a tent they cannot be accessed or at least not easily. Here there are regular buses between Split and/or Zadar and Zagreb that drop you off right at the park’s entrance (although if coming from Split or Zadar you would want to be dropped off about 1km before the park entrance in Jezerce). Secondly, Jezerce contains an endless array of little alpine-like houses each offering rooms and apartments for rent and quite often at very reasonable prices (if you know how to bargain). As such, with both transporation and accommodation not being an issue, the park becomes an easy stop of point on any backpacking circuit. Furthermore, the park itself is incredibly well organized and maintained. The info desk provides you with various walking itineraries depending on how much time you want to spend in the park, there are little trains and boats that take you to various starting points along the trails and everything is incredibly well signposted. As such, Plitvice should be a stop for anyone traveling on this route.

Zagreb on the other hand has turned out to be a concrete jungle. Maybe our first impression is biased by the insanely oppressing heat and high humidity that have made walking amongst all the concrete simply unbearable. However, the city does not seem to have too much to offer. Its old town is desperately lacking, there seems to be a shortage of pleasant little cafes or restaurants, and an incredible shortage of trees (in the Old Town). The end result of this oppressing heat wave is that we’ve spent some of the time roaming the town, but mostly just trying to avoid the heat by going to the movies, visiting the museums and seeking any shade possible. Tonight it’s off to Ljubljana where hopefully it will not be this humid.